United Bamboo
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Maya Singer
Fashion week spectators have been dragged to some unprepossessing locations, but the blighted block where United Bamboo staged its show today might take the cake. Over there, an entrance ramp to the Lincoln Tunnel. Over here, the ass-end of a truck depot. Other than that, nothing except biting wind off the river. This, you couldn't help thinking, must be where hope goes to die.And then hope was reborn: Upstairs, safe from the chill, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham debuted a generally excellent Fall '11 collection. The inspiration was menswear, a theme developed through tailoring, plaids, and lots of wool suiting fabrics, and grappling with mannishness seems to have freed Pham and Aoki to work a little looser while still hewing to detail. Case in point: an absolutely must-have navy peacoat, cut square and inset with muscular panels of dun shearling. The coat had some of the winsomeness one expects from United Bamboo, and all of the finickiness regarding proportion and cut, but it felt totally unmannered. A few more examples: a long gray trenchcoat in nubby knit wool, a car coat in fuzzy plaid mohair, a short crepe jacket cheekily corset-laced in the back. If you've noticed a theme developing, good work—the outerwear was indeed impressive all around.
Pham explained after the show that the menswear inspiration, and the amount of tailoring it entailed, led him and Aoki to explore ways to soften their collection. Hence the emphasis on tailored knitwear (to wit, that nubby knit trench) and on draping. A couple of draped black dresses, though good on their own, felt out of place, but U.B.'s gently draped trousers looked exceptionally smart teamed with the brand's flat over-the-knee boots and cropped blazers. The look was mannish in inspiration, clearly, but this suit was all woman. Cheers to that.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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