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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock know their fashion history. They've been studying up since the early nineties, when they were middle schoolers with subscriptions to Vogue and Sassy. For Fall, they looked back at those years and borrowed heavily from its designer big guns: Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan, and Azzedine Alaïa. They even printed an era-appropriate zine with contributions from their fashionable friends and placed them on front-row seats. "It's the other side of grunge, the elegant early nineties," they said backstage of the clothes. For those of you not so well versed in that part of the decade's styles: It was a time when jackets and coats came with big padded shoulders, pants were full and sat at the natural waist, skirts were ice-skater short or long to the ground, and tops were often sliced off at the midriff or accented by daring cutouts.As always, Buhai and Mayock showed off their subtle sense for color. A long silk crepe de chine skirt combined warm blocks of rust, navy, and gray to lovely effect. And no one can whip up an interesting neckline like they can. The square neck of a long silk jersey dress looked particularly sexy. But the cutouts proved to be somewhat tricky, and, apologies to Armani et al., but those early-nineties silhouettes don't look all that flattering to contemporary eyes. A fitted and cropped black leather jacket worn with a navy lace sweatshirt and a cropped pant was the show's most convincing look for the way it treaded lightly on the past.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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