When he arrived at Vionnet, Rodolfo Paglialunga put a modern spin on the house codes established by Madeleine Vionnet nearly a century ago. In so doing, he made the revived label a favorite with the Hollywood crowd. Now, reputation established, he's started to inject quite a bit more of himself into the mix in the form of print, texture, and color. The result was the loosest collection he's done here yet.

Paglialunga found his starting point online, turning the image of a black and white knot he discovered there into a swirling graphic pattern that could almost have been a floral. He used the print for a fluid long-sleeve dress with a nipped waist and a below-the-knee skirt, as well as a quilted wrap coat with sculptural shoulders. Stripey stretch belts added a sporty pop to most of the looks. The knot also informed dresses knitted from ribbons of silk, organza, wool, and suede, all with a swingy volume. It was interesting to see some overlap between his knit grosgrain dresses and the velvet ones at Balenciaga yesterday.

As for the color, well, it was positively florid, but we mean that in the nicest possible way. The blue of a lace dress was electric and a wool coat patched randomly with fox fur came in lipstick red. Madame Vionnet was no maximalist, but being an innovator, she might've appreciated this collection's freewheeling vibe.