Vivienne Tam
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Alison Baenen
Vivienne Tam can sometimes work an inspiration too literally, so news of her Chinese opera-inspired Fall show was received with trepidation. Thankfully, she stayed subtle. Mostly.What was successful? Structured outerwear and woolly A-line miniskirts had discreet nods to the look and costumes of the ancient Kun Opera. Structured collars swooped off the shoulders into sculpted wings, and, up close, you could see dense, intricate cloud embroidery on the skirts' hems. As for what didn't work, the cocktail and eveningwear suffered from overembellishment. A velvet tunic dress had fringe, an ornate cutout collar, and a multihued print. The print on its own might have been fine, but it got lost in the noise. With China on so many fashion people's lips of late, it was nice to see a native daughter mining the country for inspiration. Still, a lighter touch overall could have gone a long way.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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