February 09, 2011 New York
Lee drew inspiration from the Renaissance artist Hans Memling's oil portraits, and that came across in the gritty textures and androgynous feel of the collection. A long and sharp white vest, for example, looked like a nobleman's doublet; the tough, padded jackets would work as part of an urbanite's suit of armor. There were softer pieces mixed in, too. Au courant mid-calf skirts that hugged the body were bias-cut in three-ply silk. Lee also added a personal touch with wooden amulets and collars hand-carved by her boyfriend, Eric Fertman.