For being a pixie of a thing, Wayne Lee sure knows how to design tough clothes. Head-to-toe leather, in the style of Rick Owens, was the look for her Fall collection. Hoods, asymmetric zips, draped jersey, distressed suede—they all figured prominently here, with everything executed in a palette of black, white, and dirt brown, with pops of bright red.

Lee drew inspiration from the Renaissance artist Hans Memling's oil portraits, and that came across in the gritty textures and androgynous feel of the collection. A long and sharp white vest, for example, looked like a nobleman's doublet; the tough, padded jackets would work as part of an urbanite's suit of armor. There were softer pieces mixed in, too. Au courant mid-calf skirts that hugged the body were bias-cut in three-ply silk. Lee also added a personal touch with wooden amulets and collars hand-carved by her boyfriend, Eric Fertman.