Yigal Azrouël
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 16, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
He flits closer and farther from its influence depending on the season, but menswear usually exerts its pull on Yigal Azrouël's women's line. For Spring, it took a backseat; this season, it drove.In his studio before the show, Azrouël explained that the recent move of his men's runway to Paris had occupied him a great deal in the preceding months; he'd been thinking men's and thinking French. And sure enough, there was a boyish, gamine quality to the collection he showed at Lincoln Center this morning. It was premised on a cropped pant—in pop-colored orange, pink, and Yves Klein blue, as well as piped tuxedo versions in wool and velvet-trimmed leather—and some menswear-inspired outerwear (a plaid, shearling-trimmed number he called a "granddad" coat, and a short, sharp car coat in radioactive orange). Following the ethereal lightness of Spring, these sporty pieces felt like a pull back down to earth. Azrouël, more than some of his contemporaries, has the courage of his convictions: He follows his inspirations moment to moment, season to season, in whatever direction they lead. This time—aside from a few missteps like the sheer feathered dresses—his instincts led him to a strong and very wearable collection.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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