Antonio Azzuolo
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Antonio Azzuolo is a born tailor. He's on his firmest footing when he plays to his strength."There's a focus on what I do best, the tailored blazer and garment," he said at his sunny presentation this morning. Azzuolo's rope-shouldered, cropped blazers—the pieces, no doubt, that won him consideration for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize—were versions of what he's shown before, but none the worse for that. The basic precepts of suiting don't change, and part of the beauty of suit staples is that they're strong enough to be practically indestructible. Made correctly, in the kind of ateliers the designer worked at during his tenure at Hermès, they'll be literally indestructible, too. (Forget buy now, wear now; it's buy now, wear forever.) Azzuolo tipped his cap to the craftsman there by mimicking basting stitches on the fronts of some jackets. Squint, and they looked like a parody of pinstripes. Don't laugh. These could sell.But Azzuolo couched the sartorial with what he called a street influence, amping up volume and emphasizing layering, the result of a recent trip to Japan. He introduced a series of sleeveless kimonos, which were layered under jackets and over loose shorts. It served as a reminder that there's an alternative narrative of suiting, too, one stranger, sportier, and occasionally sexier. Designers as disparate as Thom Browne, Scott Sternberg, and Kris Van Assche have helped to write it in the margins. It's not a surefire recipe for success. But even when it doesn't lead you to success, you stumble in distinguished company.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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