is a decadent par excellence. If furbelows have a champion in menswear, it is he. That taste may keep him from household-name status in American menswear or out of the collaboration labs of fast-fashion companies, but it's given his collections an occasionally subversive charge. Alas, you can have too much of a good thing. Mabille's new collection was long on quilted leather, velvet, and guipure lace. The dominant silhouette paired a peplum blouse with skintight pants whose appliqués resembled thigh-high boots. The stated inspiration was Henry VIII. The result looked like Jonathan Rhys Myers on a fancy-dress lark, which, despite what The Tudors
fans may tell you, is not the same thing.