Alexandre Plokhov
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2012
By Tim Blanks
"It feels nice to do a show where I'm the boss," said Alexandre Plokhov, in an oblique reference to the seasons he spent working on Versace's menswear. Something else that referred back to his time with the iconic Italian label: the absolute rejection of color in his own collection. A gothic darkness ruled. Plokhov called his collection "a stylistic fan letter" to musicians Glenn Danzig and Andrew Eldritch, famously front men of iconic goth bands, but he wouldn't brook connotations of goth for his funereal designs. "I prefer to think of them as heroic," he insisted. He'd picked a very particular tribe of boys to underscore that fact: different ethnicities yet all sharing the same bruised, broken-nosed survivalist look.Plokhov's reservations about goth aside, it's one youth cult that can boast it has kept its doomy integrity intact in the face of time and reason. Likewise, Plokhov's clothes. Unimpeachably true to the intention of their creator but simultaneously in danger of being superfluous to needs. Consider his tip of the cap to Eldritch—"a maniacal, visceral, and complex idea of masculinity"—and decide whether that is something that ticks your boxes, especially when it translated as an elongated apron/tuxedo vest over a floor-length skirt, or an overcoat in a mohair dipped in acid so that it had a matted, oily feel ("like dirty hair," said Plokhov appreciatively).
During his Versace period, the designer acquired an appreciation of Italian craftsmanship. His clothes are produced in the Veneto, and there was an agreeable sharpness to the tailoring of several formal jackets. But the collection as a whole was weighed down by its glowering obsessiveness. "Eldritch" was one of horrormeister H. P. Lovecraft's favorite adjectives to describe creeping dread. Lovecraft may not be the best go-to reference for a fashion designer in these troubled times.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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