Andrea Pompilio
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 12, 2012
By Tim Blanks
Andrea Pompilio, anointed one of the up-and-comers in the Italian fashion industry by last season's Who's on Next awards, followed his gorgeous ethnic-gone-rococo Spring collection with something that channeled the urban jungle for Fall. He said it was all about maturing as a designer, but it felt like a lot of the quirk, strangeness, and charm that made Spring such a standout had been sidelined in favor of a more accessible metropolitan mood. Until, that is, Pompilio got to clarify his position. For instance, he'd chosen Cheetah, the recently deceased simian star of ancient Tarzan movies, as a recurring visual motif in the collection to represent the real animal within, which counterpointed the sportswear sophistry of everything else on the catwalk. And he'd imagined that, in dark times, there could be few things more uplifting than to swan into La Scala, Milan's legendary opera house, in a yellow glazed cotton poncho. Or to wear a fur-bobbled toque, or a goofy deerstalker. The guy clearly has a sense of humor.And he has an acute sense of how to transmogrify the staples of casual citywear. Combats, parkas, shearlings, and chunky knits were all tweaked to chic. But he also used lightly quilted pieces to stand in for sweaters under outerwear. That was a smart solution to added seasonal bulk. The tailored jackets looked clumsy by comparison, even if they suggested that Pompilio is a born colorist. He's also canny enough to appreciate how his aesthetic can translate into accessories. If the hats were a hoot, the shoes were a must-have.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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