Assembly
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2012
By Maya Singer
Assembly designer Greg Armas arrived at New York fashion week with a fully fleshed-out point of view. Armas has been developing his menswear line for several seasons now, and the collection he showed at his debut presentation today seemed more like an encapsulation of the designer's established than any kind of statement of new intent.That's a good thing, inasmuch as Armas' ambitions as a designer mostly relate to the detail of his clothes, which are way more fussed over and thought through than their slouchy silhouettes would suggest. Consider, for instance, the fine wool blazer in tan and black that, upon inspection, proved to have banded seams in place of traditional lining; as Armas explained, it was exponentially more work to finish the jacket that way, but the technique made it easier to layer.
Other examples: the crinkly, rust-colored denim pieces, which were made from organic denim and given a squid ink and persimmon overdye, and the collarless tan jacket with covered buttons and a subtle cutaway hem. The typical Assembly ensemble—soft suiting layered with tenderized tees, chunky knitwear, and rakishly oversize outerwear—is emphatically grungy. But the success of the look is down to the precision of Armas' methods and his fanatical attention to material and cut.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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