Bespoken
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 8, 2012
By Maya Singer
Following their visit to the smoggy, feel-bad climes of late seventies-era Manchester last season, it appears that the Bespoken boys were in need of some fresh air. Hence, the new collection from the brothers Fayed and Goncalves explored an outdoorsy vibe, riffing on the look of turn-of-the-twentieth-century hunters, gamekeepers, and outlaws. The resulting clothes had a fittingly rugged aspect, nothing too new, after a few years of "heritage" everything, but appealing nonetheless.That appeal was largely to be found in the collection's textural sophistication. A horizontally striped jacket with poacher's pockets, for instance, came in a dense yet supple fox flannel. Check shirting, in fabrics retrieved from the Turnbull & Asser archives, was as soft as chamois cloth. Melange wool sweaters, in a melting stripe, felt cloudy to the touch. And even the label's traditional Henley got some tenderizing: This season, it's been executed in double-faced fine cotton, and quilted. All the tempting comfort of the Bespoken materials was counterpoised against dandyish suiting pieces in a suite of unexpected patterns, such as tonal gray camo, and gray/burgundy check.
Bespoken is in the midst of a growth spurt: The brand recently opened its new atelier in the heart of financial midtown, and it is about to set up shop at Saks Fifth Avenue as well. In addition, the designers are continuing to develop their range of shoes. This season, the collection grows to nine styles, including a fine leather-and-suede lace-up boot that nicely captures the natty-yet-hardy tone of the season.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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