Christophe Lemaire
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 22, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Nearly two years ago, Christophe Lemaire took the reins at Hermès. Withoutdrawing too firm a line between his work for that house and the clothes he continues to design for his own label, there is one connection to be made: Exposure to the sky's-the-limit luxury of Hermès has emboldened the designer to push his own wares to a more rarefied place. "Psychologically, it has decomplexed me," he said, "released me from the fear of going to a higher level." He called his new collection his most precise and also his highest-quality. It's never been cut-rate stuff, but the offering was discernibly elevated by the introduction of a cashmere program and heritage fabrics like Irish donegal tweed and British felted wool (the original material for the traditional British duffel coat, here used for a stiff and substantial double-breasted overcoat). The style remains variations on Lemairean themes. While the designer professes a love for post-punk and New Wave—Ian Curtis is a constant reference—you'll never see anything as literal as a band tee here. Instead, there are nods at workwear, as in a peacoat-style dockworker's jacket, and at global traditions. The monkish silhouette the designer prefers, with loose, pleated carrot pants and streamlined, deceptively simple tops, won't win over everyone. But this was a strong, sophisticated collection, and Lemaire acolytes will appreciate the uptick of its not-quite-monastic luxe.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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