January 13, 2012 Milan
Boardroom fans of the brand may be surprised by the sheer volume of sportswear, and in all, this entire collection seemed a bit like a wayward blast from Z Zegna, rather than Ermenegildo—which, interestingly enough, gave it a new freshness and spark. (Whither Z itself will go, under the new creative direction of Paul Surridge, remains to be seen on Monday.) Where there were suits—checked, chevronned, and patch-pocketed—they tended to be shown with cashmere turtlenecks. And while a series of fustian capes lent a Tyrolean flavor, a few looks were hale and hearty enough to call to mind a young Redford at Sundance. Not that they were any less luxe for that. Shearling jackets in cadet blue, long quilted leather trenches, and the return of Spazzolino, the brushed alpaca Agnona introduced in the seventies, saw to that. If the overall message read out of office, not to worry. The Zegna man may earn his R&R this season, but his BlackBerry, the company assured showgoers via press notes, remains always connected to the global financial uncertainty.