Ermenegildo Zegna
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MILAN, January 14, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Video screens of roaring fireplaces set the scene at Ermenegildo Zegna. For Fall's "Winter's Tale," the Zegna man hit the ski lodge. You can imagine i Zegna know from a chalet. Home is where the hearth is.Boardroom fans of the brand may be surprised by the sheer volume of sportswear, and in all, this entire collection seemed a bit like a wayward blast from Z Zegna, rather than Ermenegildo—which, interestingly enough, gave it a new freshness and spark. (Whither Z itself will go, under the new creative direction of Paul Surridge, remains to be seen on Monday.) Where there were suits—checked, chevronned, and patch-pocketed—they tended to be shown with cashmere turtlenecks. And while a series of fustian capes lent a Tyrolean flavor, a few looks were hale and hearty enough to call to mind a young Redford at Sundance. Not that they were any less luxe for that. Shearling jackets in cadet blue, long quilted leather trenches, and the return of Spazzolino, the brushed alpaca Agnona introduced in the seventies, saw to that. If the overall message read out of office, not to worry. The Zegna man may earn his R&R this season, but his BlackBerry, the company assured showgoers via press notes, remains always connected to the global financial uncertainty.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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