Gant by Michael Bastian
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Michael Bastian's Gant presentations have always peered through a camera lens: the Marilyn's Husbands show, based on DiMaggio and Miller; the Brady Bunch Hawaiian theme last season; even the very first, a fantasia set in a locker room. But for his latest outing, the lens Bastian looked through was that of his own experience. "It's the most personal of all the ones I've done," the designer said at the tableau-dotted presentation. "I feel like I finally clicked with a focus. I was remembering my time in Boston in the eighties when I was at school, when I was really into mod and mod music. I was thinking, Where am I gonna get my next beer and how am I gonna get my ass into the city?"Whether it was thanks to the memoir aspect or not, Bastian's most personal collection was also his most relatable and winningly lighthearted. The mod mood rang loudest through the soundtrack—Bastian creates a playlist to guide every collection he makes—while the clothes themselves hewed to the popped-collar prep style he tweaks each season. There were standouts among the tailored pieces (a Bastian specialty, both here and at his namesake line), the outerwear, and the knits, but it's almost beside the point to home in on some at the expense of others. The overall impression here was of much: There was scarcely a category not represented, or a look that couldn't be broken down into five or more shoppable pieces. If it's not quite all things to all people, it's the most things for the most possible. That dovetails nicely with Gant's global presence and increasing reach. Perhaps the climb will continue, for Bastian and for Gant. Not for nothing did the clothes on display put you in mind of the halcyon days of The Gap.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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