E pluribus unum. Naming the members—designers and partners both—of New York menswear label Loden Dager used to take more fingers than you've got on one hand. But recent seasons have seen the team shrink to two, and, as of this season, one: Label co-founder Paul Marlow is now at it alone. For the first time, he closed his punky, pop-bright show with a solo bow.

That being the case, it makes sense that he used the runway this season to hone the message he's been broadcasting, rather than create a fully new one. At his studio before the show, he spoke of continuing the "kids in America" theme he'd introduced for Spring. The same saturated brights were in effect, though the suburban slouch of last season gave way to something at once more urban and more odd. It was hard to know what to make of the short-over-long bondage pants Marlow put on his catwalk, and while some of the play with fabrics seemed fruitful and cost-effective—like the Japanese polyester, as soft and pliant as cotton—sallies into Ultrasuede and faux shantung felt off.