Les Hommes
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 14, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Les Hommes are back, and not in black. After several seasons showing by appointment, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch returned their line to the runway. And while these designers usually favor the kind of dark hues that have made Karl Lagerfeld a fan, today brought a sudden shock of color. "It's really a moment for us to explore color. We need some fun," the duo explained. Never mind that Milan, at least so far, has gone out of its way to embrace a more somber palette, led by Raf Simons and his fantasia of black leather. These two hommes were bent on teal and cranberry.They'd been thinking of Peruvian dressing, "high in the mountains," they said, trekkers bundled up above the waist and spindly below. It made for a kind of Montana moment: Models swaddled in layers of chunky, multicolored knits veined with loose cables resembling double helixes, topped off with scarves and, as often as not, more sweaters. The knits piled on top of suit pants sometimes, but the whole thing made more sense when they came atop python jeans, or Milan's umpteenth leather pant of the day. This isn't a look to go halfway with. In for a penny, in for a pound, as they say—which almost, in a funny way, explained the vaguely revolutionary berets the models wore, and the pirouette spins a few executed mid-catwalk.
The line's new stylist, Jodie Barnes, lent a bonkers coherence to the lot. And left-field as the collection may have felt—both for Les Hommes and for Fall '12 so far—it had its feet securely on the ground. "It's the ultimate shopping experience," Vandebosch said. "It's all about garments."
See all from Les Hommes › Timeline
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2012 Menswear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
B
Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
E
E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
F
Fendi -
G
Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
I
Iceberg Issey Miyake -
J
J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
L
Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
N
N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
P
Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
R
RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
T
T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
U
Umit Benan -
V
Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
W
Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Z Zegna
ERROR:
