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Moschino

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MILAN, January 16, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Rossella Jardini and Moschino menswear designer Bill Shapiro called their new collection Savile Rock. "We liked the idea of perfecting our tailoring," Shapiro explained backstage before the show. Hence the Savile, as in Row. There were suits on display as classic and office-ready as any Moschino's shown in recent seasons. Wait for the but. "At a certain point, we got bored," Shapiro admitted. Cue the Rock, as in Roll.

There were literal twists on the musical theme in the kind of novelty items Moschino sells so well, like the jackets with guitar heads embroidered on the back. (In front, they're covered in large basting stitches, like the untailored jackets). Rock and Row resulted in some memorable mash-ups, like a distressed-leather Perfecto jacket inset with suiting-wool panels. By the end, the looks had gone full-on fluoro.

Between the tailoring and the usual Moschino antics, there was plenty here that was winning. And the show's always a laugh, like the pieces early in the lineup in a brick-wall motif. They made for a kind of sartorial equivalent of Chekhov's gun. By the end, they had reappeared in altered form: graffiti-tagged.

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