Nicole Farhi
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 16, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Nicole Farhi marks its 30th anniversary this year, and Farhi and men's designer Massimo Nicosia decided to celebrate with a trip. Their new collection borrowed freely from traditions around the globe: Overcoats were created with Indian quilting techniques, William Morris prints from the Liberty archive were needle-punched onto jackets, and the pop iconography of Hawaiian shirts was splattered onto palm-printed tees. The looks came accessorized with collaborative suitcases from the heritage English label Globe-Trotter, loafers (all the easier to slip in and out of at airport security), and matching sleep masks for the man on the move.Maybe it was the mostly dark palette (even the palm trees bloomed on gray) or the driving punk beat, but something seemed anxious about these wandering souls. No spring break, this. Cock your head just so and the hard-eyed boys with their matching masks looked like missionaries for some lost cause—or militiamen out to enforce it. Farhi dismissed such a notion, but it lent a not unbecoming urgency to the collection. Suffice it to say, whatever the spur of the journey, it continues, thanks in part to an investment and a commitment for expansion—especially abroad—from a new majority shareholder.
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