Paul & Joe
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 19, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Studio Harcourt on Paris' rue Jean Goujon was founded in the early part of the twentieth century, and grew to become such a destination for heroically lit, up-close-and-personal portrait photography that the stars of the silver screen, both from Hollywood and from Paris, were known to drop by for a sitting. More recently, it was the scene of Sophie Albou's menswear presentation for Paul & Joe. Albou was designing, she said, with French cinema's l'age d'or in mind: the fifties and sixties, when "chic, beautiful, elegant, and very masculine men" like Yves Montand ruled the roost. It was an homage to mid-century staples: belted overcoats, fedoras, and flat caps; wider-legged pants than P & J's usually slim-cut standard. It could have been costumey, but for every wide pant, there was its counterpart in skinny, as well as colors, shapes, and fabrications that her young client base will recognize as their own, whether they know Yves from Adam.She may be looking toward the past for inspiration, but Albou continues to move her label forward. She is introducing a diffusion men's line, PJ, this year. And if all goes well, her first New York store will bow in 2012, too.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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