Robert Geller found his vision for Fall in an interesting intersection of Englishness. On the one hand, he was inspired by post-punk band the Sound and Control, the Anton Corbijn biopic of Joy Division's lead singer, Ian Curtis. On the other, he was thinking about the iconic wardrobe of the traditional British gent.

Overall, the layered look Geller presented skewed more country mouse than city, with the grassy fenced backdrop and dirt runway of his show no doubt tipping the effect even further. With heavy woolen breeches and newsboy caps, at times it veered into caricature. But there were more than a few pieces that could make the trip from the wind-whipped moors to rain-soaked city streets, like those fab cabled hand-knit sweaters and the leather-toggled duffel cut in the bona fide Harris tweed the designer tapped over his usual Japanese stuff.

Predictably, the uniform of brooding young Mancunians yielded a bumper crop of merch—skinny cuffed wool trousers, tartan shirts, and light nylon bombers—that Geller fans will readily cotton to. Details—like painted-on polka dots or dip-dyed-looking jackets—kept things interesting. And though the Geller guy probably isn't the type to seek out brights, it must be said that the juicy little doses of safety orange and canary yellow saved this from being an overly dour affair.