Steven Alan
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 8, 2012
By Maya Singer
The unemployment rate may be falling, but to judge from Steven Alan's presentation this morning, we're heading into a depression. Alan's Fall collections for both men and women riffed on thirties-era aesthetics, with an emphasis on worn tailoring and a gray and sepia-toned palette straight out of Dorothea Lange.The cited inspiration was Diego Rivera—another icon of the up-with-labor, bread line era. Alan channeled the Rivera influence into newly emphasized handknits made in South America, as well as striped jackets and waistcoats redolent of Mexican blankets. For women, the blanket theme was extrapolated as well, into items like a mid-calf, contrast-striped jersey dress.
The menswear collection saw Alan continuing to develop his dressier pieces—there were soft tailored suits in a variety of interesting fabrications, such as moleskin and washed wool, and narrow trousers with a subtle slouch. Elsewhere, he turned out some nice adaptations of closet staples, such as a navy anorak in leather.
The women's collection, meanwhile, riffed on the men's. Many of the menswear materials repeated themselves, notably the herringbone tweed, while girlier items such as a pleated skort (skort!) and appealing full skirts were executed in mannish checks and foulard prints. Metallic brocade provided a nice counterpoint to the general low-key atmosphere. All in all, there were no real surprises here from Alan, but the collections had a strong, cohesive point of view and boasted lots of salable, easy-to-wear clothes.
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2012 Menswear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
B
Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
E
E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
F
Fendi -
G
Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
I
Iceberg Issey Miyake -
J
J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
L
Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
N
N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
P
Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
R
RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
T
T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
U
Umit Benan -
V
Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
W
Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Z Zegna
ERROR:
