Tim Coppens
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 8, 2012
By Maya Singer
Tim Coppens was the big news out of last season's New York shows, presenting a debut menswear collection that was promptly scooped up by Barneys New York, LN-CC, Dover Street Market, and Isetan in Japan. There are some good reasons for the buzz around Coppens, and one very, very good reason. The good reasons, confirmed at his sophomore outing today, include the facts that Coppens is a precise and inventive tailor, as well as a dab hand with color, which he uses with great care and subtlety, and he's also a designer with real sense for material. The very, very good reason for paying heed to Coppens, which was likewise attested to in his new collection, is that he's the master of his references. Last season, Coppens was riffing on the film A Prophet, and the tracksuited look of the banlieues; this time out, he derived ideas from the Ryan Gosling flick Drive, along with hockey and racing apparel. The references aren't notable in and of themselves. What makes Coppens special is that he doesn't fetishize his influences, but rather uses ideas from outside himself to advance a point of view on masculinity that feels considered, singular, and coherent.Coppens' emerging strong signature is his interest in athleticism. Given his background as the former design director of Ralph Lauren's activewear label, RLX, that's not surprising. Neither is his deft use of technical fabrics, which he plays against the warmer textures of popcorn-knit merino wool, close-shaved shearling, and ultrafine lambskin. He's clearly attuned to the way that athletic apparel lives a double life, as both a wardrobe of functional garments and as streetwear with its own tough attitude. His trick is to give that attitude an air of refinement: Here, the Coppens strategy played out in narrow jogging pants with angular seaming, sharply cut varsity and moto jackets in unexpected materials such as shearling and tan mac cotton, and slim, elegant trousers with racing bands down the sides. He also made a lot of use of motocross-inspired patching, a reference that, although overt, never felt slapped on or kitschy. You could imagine a guy sporting Coppens' clothes, in particular his very fine outerwear, in a totally natural way. The collection was fashionable without screaming "fashion."
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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