Mugler
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 18, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Forget Tinker, Soldier, Spy. The hero of Fall 2012 is the Tailor. Milan's shows suggested that this would be the season of the suit, and the first show in Paris seemed to confirm it. That it was as unlikely a candidate for suiting separates as you're like to find only strengthened the point. Creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Romain Kremer may have taken their runway bows in baseball jackets, but their Mugler collection emphasized tailoring more than any they've created yet.Backstage, Formichetti explained that he'd been looking at the uniforms of marines, even visiting a base to see them firsthand. That uniforms like these are the roots of men's formal uniforms—the suit, the tux—wasn't lost on him. Neither was the fact that both emphasize theatricality and artifice. T&A, of course, are Formichetti's stock in trade.
These weren't your father's suits. They had more in common with the armorlike, body-transforming outfits of superheroes, a particular fascination of the house's namesake. But if the shapes were borrowed from those outside of civilization—who is lonelier than the superhero, unable to mingle among his fellow men?—the materials were taken, in large part, from the idiom of high civility. Formichetti cut jackets from satin, whole suits from jacquard. They played off against the synthetic materials Mugler has employed for seasons: plasticized and rubberized cotton, wool, and neoprene.
That interplay made for an interesting dissonance, and the more outré pieces (the glam glitter suits, the rubberized capes) suggested suiting that wouldn't be out of place at a club. "A modern-day man can wear it to the office, then into the street," Formichetti said. The quest to hit that middle ground may explain why some of this collection felt flat. Weird is wonderful in Mugler, and this was a bit light on it.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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