Trussardi
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 15, 2012
By
One evening in Milan, two Formula 1-themed collections. Anyone psychic enough to bet on that unlikelihood would've made a mint. But while Thom Browne at Moncler Gamme Bleu explored the style of the men on the track, Umit Benan, in his second collection for Trussardi, explored that of a champion off it. Benan was thinking of Jackie Stewart, the F1 champion of the sixties and seventies, whose mutton-chopped visage played on video screens around the runway. But he was careful to note that it was Stewart at play, rather than Stewart at work, that inspired the high-seventies collection.There were enough flared pants, flat caps, sideburns, and structured bags to stage a Me Decade revival single-handedly. It was a step in time backward from the eighties styles Benan rose to fame reinterpreting. But it was anything but arbitrary. After the show—"show" being the operative word here; models mugged and all but chugged their prop bottles of victory-lap bubbly—Benan claimed it had all grown out of the Trussardi family and label itself. "The family has an incredible passion for cars," he said. "Everything started with the company. Everything began with the most important product—with gloves." Many of the looks were styled with soft leather drivers.
Pulled apart, the collection should yield plenty of the strong, not-quite-vintage pieces that are the Benan specialty, like his fur-collared overcoat, double-breasted blazer (with black leather-lined pockets), and geometric knits. Put together, they comprised a vision so totalizing that, if not for the hordes of onlookers pressing against the Trussardi boutique's glass doors for a look, you might've forgotten where (and when) you were. It may not have had the monopoly on Formula 1 tonight, but nothing else looked a bit like it.
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