Timo Weiland
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2012
By Alison Baenen
Backstage before their show, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein talked about the adventure and exoticism of the post-punk era New York City, when "artists were really able to be artists," as Weiland put it. "We feel connected to that." Rose-colored as that view may be, it gave the pair a rebellious platform to jump off of.A partnership with Saga allowed the label to experiment with fur for the first time. A long navy coat came with a removable fox-pelt waistband; another, in white, featured removable raccoon cuffs. These add-ons were definitely more luxe than punk, but they provided a nice textural volume to the layered knits and silk prints. The emphasis on layering, along with a smattering of plaids and a few velvet maxi skirts, called to mind yet another music era: grunge. Add a slipdress, a few cropped sweaters, and a fusty-kitsch floral print, and most of the women's looks landed solidly—and wearably—in the nineties.
The menswear was less idiosyncratic. Subtle tweaks on solid classics—like pants with a tuxedo stripe on the inside of the thigh, as opposed to out—made the label's hooded sweatshirts, duffel coats, and fitted work shirts the ideal foundation pieces for a casual, well-tailored wardrobe. Were there incendiary fashion moves afoot here? No. But hip prints, quality fabrics, and a great fit are plenty to get fired up about.
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Fall 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.P.C. Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Andrea Pompilio Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo Assembly -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Belstaff Berluti Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Edun Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hardy Amies Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Les Hommes Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino MP Massimo Piombo Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicole Farhi -
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Patrik Ervell Paul & Joe Paul Smith Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Siki Im Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Coppens Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Todd Snyder Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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