Y-3
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2012
By
It was literally and figuratively a magic carpet ride at Y-3, with a runway layered in Persian rugs and a collection that imagined Westerners on a stylishly rugged global trek. "We wanted to have this very visible element of Yohji Yamamoto in Y-3," said creative director Dirk Schönberger backstage after the show. "And as we know, Mr. Yamamoto is always about a journey." True enough. The master himself has taken us from Outer Mongolia to Edwardian England, not to mention from Tokyo to Paris and back again.This, of course, was slightly different. The boys and girls here would seem to be an eclectically bundled-up band of travelers, working the sartorial exotica—kaffiyeh scarves, Peruvian knits, Central Asian ikat trims—into their sporty kit. (There was also a preponderance of leopard print in the mix. Perhaps the exotica of the First Arrondissement?)
For womenswear, early on in the show you saw Yohji-isms like a leather jacket with a shaped hourglass waist, and for men, the folded Japanese fisherman's pants. But overall, the pieces skewed more functional than poetic. Not that the two elements didn't coexist here. In fact, this particular blend of Yohji and Adidas felt like being in Baby Bear's bed—exactly right—and not a moment too soon: Y-3's 10th anniversary is looming large next season.
Many of these pieces had the most straightforward and immediate appeal we've seen yet at a Y-3 show. Lots of editors could be heard raving about the outerwear. In fact, worn in combination with the naturalistically constructed getups, the parkas were exactly what many of the fashion insiders, heading to their next show, would want to wear against the bitter winds tonight.
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