The Victorian era has been getting a lot of attention on the Paris runways. Andrew Gn is the latest designer to give dark romance a go. He opened with a narrow, streamlined navy coat, trimmed on the shoulders and the front placket with black mink. It had a faintly military look about it. The silhouette made reappearances throughout the show, turning up with tiny leather leaves embroidered on the shoulders and sleeves and again in black velvet with patent leather zigzagging down the front and around the cuffs. Those coats were the most understated part of the collection.

Gn loves it luxe, and his chosen Victorian motif gave him carte blanche to pile on the jet beads and other embroideries. At times you wanted him to scale back—lose the fishnets, say, or the black lace chokers. A couple of the evening gowns looked too period with their black ribbon lacings. Another dress with elaborate beadwork tracing the torso was too gothic.

That said, though, there were charmers in addition to that first coat. The white blouse with chiffon latticework around the shoulders that accompanied a flippy black skirt had a modern look about it, as did a stretch jersey black dress with hand-cut and -appliquéd lace above the bust and on the sleeves.