A typical Alexandre Herchcovitch show cycles through a lot of looks and a lot of ideas. Today's show, in contrast, was pithy and straight to the point: His overarching concept was to combine unlikely materials such as lace and technical nylon or printed silk and shearling and apply them to clean, ladylike silhouettes.

That strategy resulted in a lot of strong looks, in particular the outerwear paneled in tone-on-tone metallic leather and the baroquely gothic tiered dress in gold lace. Aside from the metallic theme, Herchcovitch limited himself—unusually—to a neutral palette, turning out his papery suede and shearling jackets in varying shades of brown, from plumlike to pumpkin-y, and tamping down the gold bling with a simple tan check print. All in all, this was a restrained effort from him, and a solid one.