Anthony Vaccarello's Spring collection catapulted him to fashion fame. Karlie Kloss rocking a peekaboo gown that's more bathing suit than dress will do that to a guy.

For a follow-up, the Belgian newcomer decided to put his focus on tailoring. "I wanted something more masculine, more strong," he said of his navy satin suiting pieces with their military vibe. For the record, Kloss chose his collection as her runway re-entry after sitting out New York, London, and Milan—and the buttoned-up shirt, blouson jacket, and high-waisted pants she wore prove that he's not a one-trick kind of designer. Suits have gone mostly missing on the Fall runways, which gives Vaccarello an edge, but even if we'd seen lots of them this season, the sleek two-piecers that followed KK down the catwalk would be worthy of shout-outs.

The task he set up for himself for evening—marrying that tailoring with 1950's lingerie shapes—was more difficult. To start with, his daring jumpsuits and dresses absolutely demand supermodel-caliber physiques. But even if you've been blessed in the bod department, their elaborate construction and cutouts make it tough to get the fit right. A too-tight hem meant a miniskirt rose scandalously high on its model's thighs, and on some pieces, fabric bunched and puckered where it should've been smooth.

Still, his clothes are sexy as all get-out and modern-looking, too. The right magazines will want to shoot them, and the best celebrities will ask to borrow them. Couple those facts with the more commercial but still connected tailoring and we'd say Vaccarello is on his way to building himself a brand.