Basso & Brooke
February 16, 2012 London
It was at its best in sharper shapes, like the stiff rubber-back jersey T-shirts or a nipped-waist dress or a simple pencil skirt. (Though at times those shapes trespassed into the Eclectic Ladyland of Marni, particularly with the styling tic of socks scrunched in sculptural wooden wedges.) Brooke, however, attempted to transfer the concept of contrast to silhouettes, like the nearly David Byrne-oversize jackets, meant to offset narrow trousers. It's unclear what the matronly evening gowns with the long sleeves and heavy skirts were designed to counter, but they contributed to the jumbled side of the equation.
Surprisingly, Basso and Brooke have never made a big knitwear statement, but an emphasis on another contrast—that of textures—led them to it now. It's hard to see why they waited so long. In cool slouchy shapes, they looked great. Ditto their new collaboration with the Cambridge Satchel Company of printed clutches—ripe and ready for their Tommy Ton close-up.