BCBG Max Azria
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2012
By Meenal Mistry
The show notes at BCBG Max Azria cited the geometric abstraction of the Bauhaus, but that only told you half the story—that of the surface. The shapes that underpinned the collection relied heavily on the loose-limbed look of seventies American sportswear. There were belted trenches, languid wide-leg jersey trousers, and loads of midi-length color-blocked and paneled dresses, either flaring with pleats or cut straight like a long T-shirt and slit up the sides. In fact, as has been the case for several seasons, Max and Lubov Azria placed most of their chips on the frock sector. Practice makes perfect; there were many here that will appeal to their customer. The sporty color-blocking is a trend the Azrias have been riffing on for a few seasons, and here it was given depth by colorful contrasting pleats, though the new direction didn't feel as identifiably their own.Whether intentional or not, the dress-centric nature of this collection cast other categories into supporting roles. But the smattering of outerwear made up for its rarity by really laying on the luxury. And who needs a sweater (there were none here) when you've got coats with leather and fur sleeves? BCBG has vowed to weather a pair of recent credit downgrades, and here was evidence of heads held high.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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