Betsey Johnson's show opened with an early sixties-era video clip of girls screaming on the tarmac as they awaited the arrival of the Fab Four. What followed on the runway was a high-speed tour of Carnaby Street's golden age, with skinny herringbone suits, boyish coats, and miniskirts eventually giving way to psychedelic prints, maxi dresses, and fluffy faux fur trim. Johnson toggled between being literal with her reference and dropping it entirely—a strapless gold wallpaper-print minidress with a bouffant skirt was nothing other than vintage Johnson. And even the most straightforwardly mod looks were idiomatically Betsey; her looks favored a neon palette and the show-opening herringbone suit, for instance, included a pair of pants that were legging-tight.

As usual, the collection was pretty over-the-top, though it did boast a few down-to-earth pieces, like a cropped motorcycle jacket made from pink-flecked ivory bouclé and a pair of wide-leg, low-rise trousers. Moreover, Johnson's show affirmed the growing suspicion that the key look of New York fashion week will prove to be the extra-long black duster coat: When designers as different as Betsey Johnson and VPL's Victoria Bartlett both show a version of a duster, you'd be well advised to make room for one in your closet.