Badgley Mischka
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 14, 2012
By Alison Baenen
For Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Fritz Lang's Metropolis was their celluloid starting point for Fall. While the German expressionist classic informed both their signature collection and their younger-skewing Mark & James line (presented side by side today), its influence was most evident in the main collection's luxurious gowns.Models with high-voltage hair (they looked like they'd put their fingers in sockets) immediately conjured up a dystopian-future mood, while the Deco beading and triangular insets on lean, snaking gowns evoked the film's angular architecture. Over the phone a few days before the show, the designers explained they created the palette—shades of burnished platinum, rose, and gold—based on what they thought the colors in the black-and-white film would have looked like.
While a rakish pajama set in gold lamé might have been better left in black and white, the heft still looked rich. Better were pants and vests in metallic tweed from the diffusion line that had a captivating sparkle. In response to customer feedback, the design duo pushed this season's Mark & James girl to a more sophisticated place than she's been in the past. Fans of both lines should be happy with the results.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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