February 10, 2012 New York
The new Calla collection was inspired by interior design—or, more specifically, as Haynes explained, by an imaginary woman who is an interior designer—and the key prints were a blown-up wood grain and a granite fleck, both rendered in surreal hues. Haynes applied those prints to a clutch of fitted tops and dresses featuring her trademark sewn-in bodice; it's a standard silhouette for her, and it works. She also developed her tailoring, creating a dense tweed with the French house Malhia Kent (a graphic black-and-white tweed coat was particularly good) and a slouchy suit in navy crepe. One of the collection's standouts was a stiff minidress in a pastel daisy print with a spacey sheen; it would have been nice to see more of that material. All in all, though, it was a fine introduction to the New York fashion scene.