After an atypical flirtation with pink last Spring, Ennio Capasa headed back into the darkness. You might call it his comfort zone, if there wasn't so much skillful experimental tailoring that hit refresh on the usual edgy all-black fare.

The major story was asymmetry and cutaway silhouettes, occasionally layered and crisscrossing in flaps. The effect was elegant in gently curving arcs sliced out of the sides of leather and wool coats and jackets, and a bit more jarring in sharper angular chops. But credit Capasa's skill for making the conceit wearable more often than not.

He called the collection New Wave-No Wave-Dark Wave. That cocktail of movements lent the proceedings a sort of tough luxury that at times was Matrix-slick and at others alluringly witchy. A white shirt with a barren-tree motif tucked into a great, lush black leather skirt and worn with killer just-over-the-knee boots struck the balance. Sitting nearby, Capasa fan Marina Abramović leaned over to pronounce it beautiful.

The label's other fans will be similarly pleased with this collection, not only for its fab outerwear—that eventually blossomed into other moody hues like bottle green—but also the selection of great big baggy trousers, some with dipped and curved leather waistbands that echoed those cutaways. One pair came all in leather, right on track with a few we've seen this season. If it wasn't already, a trend is born.