's Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate decided to skip a runway show in favor of showroom appointments this season. They'll use the money they're saving for the store they're planning to open here in Paris later this year. The designers looked to the Andreas Gursky book Wald
for their forest print, and to late fifties/early sixties photographs of haute couture for their silhouettes. But ultimately, the big idea here was putting their customers first. Meaning that the designers continued to edit out the also-rans and the almost-rights in favor of wearable pieces like slightly cocoon-shape jackets with half-raglan sleeves; peplum tops and full-leg trousers; and a sleeveless dress made from tiers of chiffon, double crepe, and a fake fur that resembled black-and-white tweed.
The clothes nodded at the trends rather than bowing down in obeisance. And the wearability factor remained high even when Hori and Furudate got more arty, as they did with dresses that were encircled with softly pleated wide ruffs. The coolest evening look was one of those ruffs turned into an asymmetrical bustier over a pair of their low-slung, wide pants in convincing faux leather. Playing up the cruelty-free aspects of their label should be job No. 1 when that store opens.