Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra's dresses always have movement, but the designers' Fall collection gave you a particular sense of it, as if everything were somehow floating upward. Backstage, their inspiration made logical, if abstract, sense. "It started with the prints," Tagliapietra explained. "Jeffrey painted them and they looked like Beetlejuice, quirky and almost spooky. So we started thinking about the idea of hauntings, that feeling of something spectral."

Luckily it was only a feeling—these were still dresses grounded in the practicalities of the physical world. As ever, Costello and Tagliapietra's skills were apparent in the graceful tucks and twists of fabric they cut into their patterns. What felt new was a fun and slightly outré energy in some of the dresses in smudgy or swirling prints and rich silks with draped volumes cinched at the waist. You could almost see shades of eighties Emanuel Ungaro, though streamlined for today's girl. More Ivanka than Ivana.

The pair continued their nod to eco-consciousness with the AirDye technology they've been employing for a few seasons. This time around they used a dual process to create light single-ply fabrics with contrasting colors on either side, seen to best effect in a standout silvery-gray silk dress that offered up glints of aqua in its twisted-and-tied waist. When it came to the small selection of eveningwear, the lightness seemed to sag, which was mostly the result of low-slung ruching and side drapes that pulled downward. But it was a minor hiccup in a strong collection.