Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
February 22, 2012 Milan
Dirk Bikkembergs is determined to put himself on the women's fashion map. He has an uphill road ahead of him. Ask a women's editor who he is, and you're likely to get a: "Isn't he the guy that puts athletes in underwear?" As a matter of fact, yes. But he was also a member of the Antwerp Six, reminded his newly installed creative director, Paola Toscano, at a presentation today. Her plan, she explained, is to bring some edge to his sporty schtick. You saw it in a fitted motorcycle jacket with heavy-duty zips, as well as in molded leather peplums that snapped onto the waists of sleeveless silk dresses. For the most part, though, this was a collection of snappy sportswear, in the bright green of football pitches, marigold yellow, purple, and blue. The highlight was a thickly striped sweatshirt with short sleeves and low armholes that gave it an urban spin. Toscana wasn't breaking new ground, but with that look, she landed on something that could connect with the tough women's crowd.