Sophia Kokosalaki stayed at home for Diesel Black Gold's latest show (she's expecting a baby), but over e-mail she said that the brand's well-received pre-fall collection became the foundation for this one. That meant a continued focus on outerwear—a leather trench with a slouchy knit turtleneck stood out—and a strong dose of menswear. Kokosalaki also injected a bit of humor for Fall, opening the show with a pop art image of a pixelated girl in tears on a black-and-white sweater. OK, maybe that's not funny, exactly, but it set the tone of irreverence the designer was going for. For a little more cheek, slouchy shorts in treatments from shiny leopard print to pony hair were layered over men's boxer shorts in a blue and white stripes. It looked like the kind of outfit a rocker girl might make up after rolling out of bed with a banker.

Skirts came slung low, too; they hung just at the hips with the help of wide, sexy belts that attached at the back. For a denim prediction, it looks like prints aren't going anywhere soon. The jeans in this collection came splatter-painted or patterned and were cut with a bit of give, to just below the knee. These were fresh reworkings of street staples, laid-back and super-cool.