It's been a good week so far for Marlene Dietrich. Jason Wu hitched a ride on the Shanghai Express last Friday, and today Donna Karan channeled The Blue Angel, topping off nearly every look with one of Stephen Jones' jaunty mini fedoras. You know what comes next: suits. Karan is fixated on them for Fall, but naturally, it went way beyond blazers and pants here. On the one hand, she folded, tucked, and pinned pinstripe wool into a sexy bustier dress or plunge-front cocktail number; and on the other, she added lapels to a red draped wool dress and used silk cummerbunds as a neckline detail on another evening frock. What looked like a pinstripe jumpsuit was actually a "body jacket," i.e., a clever bodysuit tucked into a pair of slim pants, bisected by another one of those cummerbunds.

When Karan did turn her attention to an unreconstructed double-breasted jacket or coat, she gave it exaggerated shoulders that read a bit too mannish or maybe too 1930, the year The Blue Angel came out. The sleeker part of Karan's new man/woman story was the better one.