Derek Lam
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NEW YORK, February 12, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
"Thoughtful, quiet, a little more sober," is how Derek Lam described his new collection. On each seat, his PR team placed a paper bookmark that read "The Library," and the opening series of Persian floral prints was influenced by the frontispiece of an old book he came across. But you'd hardly call his Fall girl bookish, not with her paisley brocade bodysuit, leather pencil skirt, and gold-dipped oxfords.Lam's show had a sixties vibe that went beyond the bouffant hairdos and smoky cat eyes. Ruby Aldridge's white peacoat, poplin shirt, V-neck, and full black skirt conjured visions of some quirky coed, only in real life her jacket probably wasn't shearling, the sweater wouldn't have been cashmere, and the skirt most definitely wasn't black patent. As always, there was great outerwear here, but Lam de-emphasized fur in favor of down, cutting a jacket and vest in neat, trim shapes.
When it came time for the final passage of eveningwear, we were firmly in the present. Only a high-tech mill could pull off those Aran sweaters made from twisted nylon tulle, and only a modern-thinking designer would pair them with long chiffon skirts trailing trains.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Uniqueness United Bamboo -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen

































