"Thoughtful, quiet, a little more sober," is how Derek Lam described his new collection. On each seat, his PR team placed a paper bookmark that read "The Library," and the opening series of Persian floral prints was influenced by the frontispiece of an old book he came across. But you'd hardly call his Fall girl bookish, not with her paisley brocade bodysuit, leather pencil skirt, and gold-dipped oxfords.

Lam's show had a sixties vibe that went beyond the bouffant hairdos and smoky cat eyes. Ruby Aldridge's white peacoat, poplin shirt, V-neck, and full black skirt conjured visions of some quirky coed, only in real life her jacket probably wasn't shearling, the sweater wouldn't have been cashmere, and the skirt most definitely wasn't black patent. As always, there was great outerwear here, but Lam de-emphasized fur in favor of down, cutting a jacket and vest in neat, trim shapes.

When it came time for the final passage of eveningwear, we were firmly in the present. Only a high-tech mill could pull off those Aran sweaters made from twisted nylon tulle, and only a modern-thinking designer would pair them with long chiffon skirts trailing trains.