From the start, one of the principles of the Felder Felder look has been the label's rock 'n' roll influence, witnessed especially in sharp black leather jackets and accessories and studded everything. Designers Annette and Daniela Felder must have suspected that their rock signature was getting them into a bit of a rut, because they dispensed with it almost entirely this season and went for an altogether more grown-up tone for Fall.

This was a show with a lot of texture, featuring nubby shearling jackets, fringed handknits, and dresses and skirts in a plissélike micro pleat. The palette was earthy, based in deep tans, plus mineral hits of dark red, plum, and gold. The Felder twins made some canny adaptations of their trademarks here, such as affixing barely-there gold studding to mannish wool jackets and applying a matching print to the wide leather belts accompanying several soft dresses. A lot of the silhouettes were familiar, in particular the Felder Felder fit-and-flare minidress, but the new palette helped to refresh the look. Not all the developments were successful—some of the handknit dresses looked awkward, for instance, and the beaded fringe was a little weird—but the Felders made some really impressive strides here. The standout look at the show was a polished and sexy long red dress, which bespoke a confidence in understatement that hasn't been seen in a Felder Felder collection until now.