Francesco Scognamiglio
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 22, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Not far into Francesco Scognamiglio's Fall show, a fellow editor leaned over and said, "A lot tamer than usual, no?" It was certainly less risqué than last season's strong outing in which every piece, without exception, was sheer. Today by contrast, in what looked like a play at commercial viability, Scognamiglio introduced crochet knit sweaters and neo-conservative tailoring in a stiff woolen with a slight metallic sheen. He even, believe it or not, sent out a few of his models with briefcases tucked under their arms.But Scognamiglio could only hold back his eccentric impulses for so long. Midway through the show there appeared a button-down shirt printed with a pair of whales and grapefruit slices. Animals and fruit were popular tropes for Spring, but only the designer's psychiatrist could plumb the meaning of that combo. Later on, a bias-cut column gown came out with hip panniers in stuffed grapefruit slices—if nothing else, the exaggerated padding was on-trend. Truth be told, Scognamiglio is best in avant-garde mode. A fuzzy overcoat with splatches of electric green car paint had a sit-up-and-notice-me quality that some of the safer pieces lacked. Negotiating that divide will be Scognamiglio's challenge going forward.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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