The major takeaway from Marcel Marongiu's slick, noir-ish collection for Guy Laroche was its experimentation with textures. In the first look out, the smooth, high shine of a patent skirt was played off a black ribbed and molded turtleneck. Marongiu then segued to more tactile fare. He seemed to be taken with disturbed surfaces, as in a nubby wool that looked as if it been nibbled on by a creature of the night.

That idea was at its best in pieces with sequins that were bristled up here and there. They worked rather nicely when paired with basket-weave knits—a more casual breather from the collection's somewhat rootless seventies-inflected severity. The hard-edged sensibility softened slightly as Marongiu juiced things up with a grouping in rich pumpkin orange, followed by one in gold. A third jewel tone grouping would have been a stronger finish than the heavy gold tribal embroideries looks that closed the show.