After his all-white collection last Spring, Gregory Parkinson returned for Fall to his O.G. maximalist ways. "I think I have to continue with what's my strongest point," he said at today's presentation. "Everyone's doing print and color. I have to show them how to do it."

That might sound boastful, but Parkinson's quite the mix master, and his recent palate-cleansing season seems to have further refreshed his vision. His clothes were sharp, sleek, and more luxurious than they've ever been—nearly every look glowed with shine. He chalked it up to greater resources, evidence that business is good. Yet Parkinson knows how to take the stuffing out of potentially precious pieces, like cropped jacquard trousers with raw-edge lace tuxedo stripes, or even fur, which he had knitted into floppy little cardigans and trimmed with vintage lace. His models resembled ruined tsarinas, their finery now tattered enough to be cool.

Parkinson says his dream is to have his own store, an environment to showcase his world and put his clothes in context. Still, he doesn't impose his kaleidoscopic aesthetic as an all-or-nothing proposition. "I like the way that my clientele work my things into their wardrobes," he explained. This collection is sure to see quite a few women doing just that.