With photographer Mert Alas of Mert & Marcus fame for a creative director, Hakaan Yildirim's shows have been must-sees since he landed in Paris two Septembers ago. But despite his high profile, he's still new to this fashion week thing. As he's been settling into the routine over the last few seasons, he's tried on different styles with varying degrees of success: body-con to begin with, then more androgynous, followed by Spring's see-through moment. Today, his show's After Hours soundtrack was a clue: Yildirim went back to the 1980's stylings of Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler.

Bold shoulders and rounded sleeves gave his silhouette the inverted triangle shape associated with the decade. Other pieces came with built-out hip panniers, but significantly more pronounced than the ones the designer was experimenting with last season. Shiny lamés in blue, bronze, and black added flash, while quilting gave visual interest to otherwise simple boxy sweatshirt shapes. There were slits up to there on a handful of dresses, but overall, this collection was less overtly sexual than it's been in the past, though still edgy. That could mean good things for the designer's bottom line.