March 03, 2012 Paris
In between, Lemaire roamed the Hermès archives to find a fellow traveler in Martin Margiela and the work he did for the brand in the late nineties. The sight of Cecilia Chancellor in a big coat over a generously sized suit and sweater, all of them in the most meditative shade of gray, instantly evoked Margiela's Hermès shows: so still, so respectful, so androgynous.
That fits Lemaire's own aesthetic to a cashmere tee. The collection he showed today moved with serene confidence through a shadow land between mens- and womenswear. One of the strongest outfits was a suit—the trousers with a knit cuff—over a buttoned-up white shirt and a sweater with a V-neck that almost reached the waist. It was severe but erotic.